Edomae Sushi in Omiya - Ishimaru
Japan is full of incredible dining experiences; they’re literally almost every where you look!
This series of Dining blog posts highlights great spots near popular bonsai hubs. It feels natural to start with one of the most popular bonsai hubs: Omiya!
Located right near the Omiya train station is Ishimaru (いしまる). LINK HERE
Like many sushiya in Japan, it’s not always obvious from the outside that something exceptional is happening inside.
Tucked away on the second floor of a quiet building, Ishimaru feels like a cozy local secret that is out of the way for most tourists – this distinguishes it from the most popular sushi destinations in Tokyo.
Wait, What is Edomae Sushi?
Edomae sushi is a traditional style of sushi originating from Tokyo (formerly Edo) in the early 19th century, named for its use of seafood historically sourced via Edo Bay. The emphasis is on simplicity, seasonal ingredients, and techniques that enhance flavor while preserving the natural taste of the fish.
While we’re in the mood for definitions, this sushiya offers omakase style service. Omakase is a Japanese dining style where the chef chooses the dishes for you, usually in a multi-course meal. The word 'omakase' (お任せ) is composed of o‑ (お), a polite prefix, and makase (任せ) 'entrust' or 'leave to (someone)', with the whole word meaning something like 'I leave it up to you.'
Apprenticeships, a Well Known Topic For Us Bonsai People
As in bonsai, apprenticeships are the norm in the world of sushi. But meet Mr. Hiroyuki Numazato (沼里裕幸) — who, like many of us bonsai practitioners, is largely self-taught!
A big part of Ishimaru’s charm comes from its owner and head sushi chef. Instead of following the typical path of formal training under a master sushi chef, Numazato honed his skills on his own — watching YouTube videos, exploring the shorelines, and learning through his work experience. He began his culinary journey working at an izakaya (a casual Japanese 'pub').
Before opening Ishimaru as a formal sushi restaurant, for about a decade Numazato ran a standing bar called Tachinomi Ishimaru at the same location, next to the local Ishimaru liquor store. Tachinomi bars often serve food and drinks in a casual setting, and it was here that Numazato was already building his reputation for exceptional sushi.
In August 2020, he renovated and relaunched the space as a formal sushi restaurant, keeping the name Ishimaru. I had the privilege of visiting him in 2024. With his own style, the work that Numazato strives for is rooted in the classical traditions of edomae sushi.
The wasabi is grated as needed
Sake is often an important part of the experience. Below is sake produced in Obuse, a city in Nagano that we all know because of Mr. Shinji Suzuki's world class bonsai garden. While primarily a winery, Sogga Pere et Fils also produces exceptional sake in very small quantities.
During their peak season which lasts 3 weeks, Numazato travels to the farm where he hand-selects 40 strawberries per week to become the final course of his menu during this special fleeting moment in April.
